Real small (or larger) balls of silky and soft fur, rabbits often populate your homes or your exteriors, in the famous valves. Before falling under their spell, we advise you in the choice of your future rabbit.
Choose a male or a female
The sex difference is hardly marked when they are young. Subsequently, both sexes are considered docile. However, your male rabbit might annoy your life with his urine jets intended to mark his territory while your female rabbit will have a few hot spells. It is strongly recommended to have your rabbit (s) neutered and sterilized. Note that the cost of sterilization in a female is slightly higher than that of a male.
At what age?
Your rabbit must be more than 2 months old after adoption to be sure that its weaning is complete. Before this period, her mother may not have had time to teach her what she should normally do for her little one’s future. In a shelter or at a breeder, your future rabbit will normally be educated and sterilized. If you choose a baby rabbit, you will have to pay for its sterilization and education.
Which breed to choose?
Rabbits are classified according to 5 different categories recognized by the FFC (French Federation of Cuniculture), the last of which corresponds to the breed with characteristic fur (Angora, Renard, Rex, Satin).
The dwarf breeds
All of the 9 breeds below correspond to rabbits weighing around 800 to 1.7 kg, up to 2 kg for the dwarf ram.
- L’Hermine or the Pole. He has short white hair with pink (albino) or blue eyes.
- Lutterbach’s Hermine. Long hair except on the ears, head and legs. Otherwise, white, except his ears, more colorful (black, dark gray).
- The colored dwarf. It comes from Polish rabbits and is one of the most common in individuals. It has short, fine hair. Its head is round and voluminous and its eyes are prominent. It has no typical color.
- The dwarf ram. Considered to be the largest of the dwarf rabbits (1 to 2 kg). His hair is of medium length. There are several colors.
- The dwarf angora. He is not necessarily very well known. Still, it enjoys real popularity with rabbit lovers. He has long hair except on the face and has a lock on the forehead. He is quite easy to breed because he loves hugs and affection.
- The ecru ash dwarfs. Its coat is beige with some white spots under the belly. Small, it rises wonderfully after a short period of adjustment due to stress.
- The dwarf rex. It is a cross between the rex rabbit and the dwarf rabbit. Rabbit with short hair and dense fur.
- The dwarf foxes. It is one of the long-haired dwarfs even though they are shorter than those of the angora. It tames as well as all other breeds of dwarf rabbits.
- The satin dwarf. Short hairs and a satin appearance.
The weight of these rabbits varies from 2 to 3.5 kg. 17 breeds are recognized by the FFC.
- The English butterfly and the small butterfly have almost identical white fur, except that the latter is slightly heavier. The Russian and the Rhoen are also white with black spots on its extremities for the first, gray spots for the second.
- Chinchilla (ash gray), Feh de Marbourg (light gray blue) and Sablé des Vosges (brown) have abundant hairs.
- The Lynx is light blue in color with touches of white on its legs, tail and chin.
- English Silver, French Havana, Black Fire / Blue / Havana, Lorraine Brown Brown and Saxony Dorée all have a color that evokes their name.
- Perl Feh is bluish gray.
- The Dutchman has a white bust and a different color head and bottom. All are admitted except the silver.
- The little Aries is German and is not really a widespread breed. This rabbit has the distinction of having long floppy ears. He can’t stand the absence of the human and the lack of affection.
- The sable rabbit comes from the cross between the chinchilla and the albino angora. It has brown or blue fur.
Medium breeds (up to 5.5 kg)
- Rabbits with white fur are Vienna White, Hotot White, Rhine Butterfly, Californian, and Great Russian.
- Rabbits with abundant hair are Vienna Blue, Vienna Black, Vienna Gray-blue, Vienna Gray, Beveren Blue and Saint-Hubert Silver.
- The Blanc de Vendée and the New Zealander are albinos.
- The Fauve de Bourgogne is red, like the Belgian Hare, which can also have white or tan black colors.
- Yellow tints are present in the Thuringian Chamois and the Japanese.
- The Argenté de Champagne has a tint turning to silver.
- Gray (de Garenne) suits the Norman as for the pure gray, we find it on the Gris du Bourbonnais. The Greater chinchilla is also gray.
- Alaska has a black coat with large, erect ears.
- The English Aries also has long ears, but drooping.
- The White Jars is two-colored as for the Goat Rabbit, it is three-colored: black, white and tan.
- The giant of Flanders
- The French Aries
- The white giant of Bouscat
- The giant French butterfly
Where to adopt your rabbit
There are, like many animals, several places to adopt your rabbit.
- From a professional breeder. This is a good place to adopt a purebred rabbit. What’s more, it’s pretty much the guarantee of owning a healthy, well-behaved rabbit in its first few weeks. However, do not blindly trust the breeder. Check out the habitat of your future rabbit for yourself.
- At an individual. Many people face unexpected or unwanted gestations. They resell at ridiculous prices or subsequently give back their rabbits. Even more than at a breeder, you need to check your rabbit’s good health and lifestyle. Don’t hesitate to ask questions of the person selling their rabbit.
- In a pet store. This is the least popular solution. Indeed, a pet store is often a source of sick rabbits or those who evolve in poor conditions. Pet stores also often sell rabbits at too young an age.
- In a refuge. The latter welcome abandoned rabbits. A monetary contribution is sometimes requested. Not at the SPA which does not set any fixed price. In a shelter, rabbits are often treated much better than in a pet store. Even a rabbit that has had a complicated start to life, possibly marked by the wickedness of its former owner, can be treated.
Adopt a healthy rabbit
Either way, your future rabbit must be in good health. Several signs do not deceive.
- The ears must be constantly in motion and not allow any dirt to appear (scabs, discharge, hairless areas, etc.)
- His eyes should not be red or watery. They should also not be dirty.
- Your future rabbit should not sneeze or have a runny nose, whether runny or thick.
- The hair of your rabbit must be smooth, without apparent parasite, silky.
- Check the condition of your future rabbit’s teeth: straight, aligned.
- Your rabbit’s skin should be smooth, without any scabs or bite marks.
- The hair on the back of your rabbit should not contain any traces of soiling or any diarrhea.
- Your rabbit’s abdomen should not be swollen, but flexible.
More generally, you should notice a lively rabbit, alert but not fearful when you approach it. He should be calm when you try to take him in your hands. This will be proof that contact with humans has been made. So, you won’t have to do this education.
Buy several rabbits?
A congener is not essential for your rabbit, but it is preferable. Indeed, rabbits are animals that like to live in society. However, if it is chosen correctly, the 2 rabbits can live in harmony. Try as much as possible to favor a neutered rabbit and a sterilized rabbit. You will not have any surprises about a possible gestation.
In addition, a male and a female never get into a fight, unlike 2 males or 2 females together.
Your future rabbit can come from about sixty different breeds recognized by the FFC. It must:
- To be in a good health
- Come from a breeder, individual or refuge. The pet store is not recommended
- Be over 2 months old to be completely weaned
- To be accompanied by a fellow member provided that the latter is of the opposite sex and sterilized